David Johnson - Queen Charlotte Islands B.C.

King Salmon of the Kano Inlet

The ship, MV Salmon Seeker can be simply described as an ocean going fishing hotel with all the amenities anchored in the Kano Inlet which lies on the remote west coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. The Queen Charlotte Islands lie just south of Alaska and are in the path of millions of migrating salmon as they thunder down the British Columbia coast. The Kano inlet provides a sheltered bay to anchor the 180 ton vessel with close access to the fishing grounds. The area is so remote that the only other boats you’ll see on these waters are other MV Salmon Seeker guests. This adventure begins each August with a flight to Vancouver BC and a stop over meeting with the fine people at Absolute Software. Early the following morning the group assembles for breakfast and the opportunity to renew old friendships.

After breakfast and short bus ride to the south terminal, we board a regional commercial airliner for a remote landing strip named “Sand Spit”. This is an appropriate name since the plane must land, turn around and backtrack to the terminal. Down the steps and onto a few older commandeered school busses. These busses take us down the coast to a pier where two 16 person sea planes sit quietly moored. Down the plank and into the thin metal tubes attached to wings and floats called sea otters. A flood of engine power and soon we are skimming over waves and climbing over the mountains that make up most of the Charlottes.

Trees from shore line to mountain top makes up most of the Charlotte islands. It’s hard to understand how anything can survive here. But, the amount of wildlife is huge. Bears, Deer, Eagles, small game and fish.. tons of fish. Most importantly this is the flight path of the powerful Tyee, or 30 lb. plus King Salmon.

As we bank and begin our approach, we can now see the Seeker. It looks like a post card ship sitting alone in the vastness of the islands hill tops. Landing on water is a very different experience for those of us who are commercial commuters. Splash down brings a quiet sigh of relief from those uninitiated.

Floating up to the dock that surrounds the Seeker results in a flurry of activity by all hands on board. Tie downs in place, doors opened, gear flowing from the planes rear cargo hold, clients who have completed their stay waiting patiently for their return flight to civilization and more. Exiting the plane you’re assigned cabins, mustang suites (rain gear) and boots with instructions to attend orientation within the hour.

Each day starts with an early rise and breakfast for those compelled to eat before heading into open ocean. Me, I’m good with bagel and water. Two customers to a boat plus an experienced guide makes the team complete. Off we go at first light, plowing through the clear dark green water that reflects the deep hard rock bottom and tree encrusted hill sides. After a half hour or so we make it to the mouth of the inlet and out into the open ocean. At this point you can begin to assess the weather and conditions. Even though the caption has reported the expected conditions in the early morning briefing, you really “don’t know until you get there”. These 20 foot or shorter three man boats are reasonably capable in most conditions, but when the weather gets going they will head for the safety and protection of the inlet. Eight to ten foot seas are about the most anyone is willing to handle. Especially for the normal 6am to 4pm daily run. Lunch is served from a plastic lunch pail including cold soda and chips.

Fishing like hunting is very unpredictable. One day you see nothing the next day there’s more than one person can handle. Morning is used to find Kings than are passing through. Mixtures of salmon are common. King down deep, Coho near the top and the odd pink now and again. Once salmon fishing cools down, most switch over to Halibut down deep. This is where it gets interesting. You never know what your going to hook into. The seas hear hold any number of species. Even the odd whale, dolphin, salmon shark, Cod, snapper and more.

Hooking into the TYEE. The first time you set the hook on a Tyee you begin to understand the power of this fish. In its fully grown form, freshwater born, salt water matured and freshwater spawned these fish can grow to over 60 pounds. This size is rare but do exist. The target size to qualify as a Tyee is 30 pounds or larger. Sporting tackle is a stiff rod with an Islander single action reel. In simple terms it’s a long rod with a super duty fly reel. A bunch of 30 pound test, down riggers and fresh cut bait and your ready to go trolling. After hookup, a firm hook set is required to ensure deep penetration and freedom from the downrigger clip. One other detail that makes this a sporting activity, all salmon hooks must have their barbs pinched closed. A little slack and out comes mister hook. And to make this really fun, these fish must know we’re using a single action reels because when they decide that swimming away from the boat is more work that swimming to the boat, you can’t seem to reel fast enough to take up the line slack. With all the muscles in your arms aflame from the slashing runs and tremendous pull of the fight, the fish finally makes it’s appearance boat-side. This is when the action really heats up. Either he comes quietly to the net, or he realizes what’s going on and off he goes again stripping line like you just hooked to an Indy race car. Now that he’s taken out just as much line as when you started, its time to bring him home again. Sometimes you get him in, sometimes you don’t. That’s king salmon fishing.

The first time you get a 28 pound King boat side and your guild takes the gaff and pops the hook loose and looks at you and says, “we’ll let this little one go and keep our tag for a bigger one”, you know your ready for an adventure of a life time.