Tuesday, May 30, 2006

David Johnson - Alaskan Costal Range Hunt

 Alaskan Costal Range

Alaskan Black BearYakutat Alaska, is a small fishing village located on beautiful Monti Bay, the only sheltered deep water port in the Gulf of Alaska. It can be found near the southern most point where Alaska meets the Pacific Ocean. Although Yakutat's mainstay is fishing, both commercial and sport, the area has much more to offer the visitor than just world class Steelhead, Salmon & Halibut fishing. Costal bears in this part of the world are legendary.

The Trip ---
May 2005, the flight from Chicago to Seattle was uneventful. Arriving, early evening from the east provided a dramatic aerial view of the cities signature space needle and the downtown area. The weather was unusually clear and warm for this time of year. After landing, my bags arrived as expected but my firearms were retained for the second leg of the trip which would leave early the next day. My hotel was located conveniently only a short walk from the terminal. The room was nice but its use was brief. Up early the next morning and off to catch the hop-scotching flights up the coast to my final destination. As the plane traveled further north the scenery become more and more spectacular. High pinnacles of snow capped mountains to the east and endless boarder islands below, nothing but Pacific Ocean to the West. Yakutat airport came into view as a rare flat patch of land along an otherwise vertical landscape. Upon exiting the plane, I was surprised to feel the warmth more typical to San Diego than Alaska. The mix of people on the flight was also unusual to this lower 48 flyer. Hunters, Inuit families, traveling business people and more all arriving in a place that only 100 years ago could only have been accessed by ship.

The terminal was small yet simply functional. A glass case held a small-for-species full body mount of the rare Glacier Bear. A genetic abnormality of the black bear species makes these rare bears fur appear nearly blue in color. Some run a patchy blond and blue. Truly a unique and rare trophy if taken or even seen. After the usual unloading delays, my gear arrives always bringing a sense of relief. Stepping out of the terminal, I meet Mark our outfitter, the two bear guides (Sam and Clint), and Kevin the other hunter in camp. After introductions and discussion about the unusually warm weather we loaded our gear into a well warn and rusted pickup. Stopping at a simple one room storefront for any last minute items we next made our way through town and down to the docks.

Arriving at the fishing port of Yakatut, we loaded our gear into a single 18 foot vee hull skiff. Cans of gas, food, gear, rifles and 4 people brought the water line much closer to the side rail than what I’m certain the manufacturer had intended. With a full load, blue sky and little to no wind, we made our way along the coast towards a small cove just off Knight Island.We arrive at camp, pulled up our waders and stepped into the crystal water to bring the boat close enough to off load our supplies. The tents made of plywood, two by fours and canvas, were simple yet functional. The tents were placed between a towering tree line that extended a mile or so up the mountain and a flat of grass that extended to the rock and shoreline of the cove.

The Hunt ---
The first three days of the hunt were thankfully routine, as we acclimated to the environment. Up early, take the boat to a boarder island, point our spotting at the coastal flats, hills and mountain tops. Spotting brown bears with cubs, moose, deer and other animals a long range on mountain sides helped keep us aware that we were apt to see anything at any time and possibly anywhere.

The 3rd day of the hunt, started out just as before. Around 10am from our boarder island watch point, Sam spotted a bear that had just emerged from the bushy mountain side of the mainland onto its rocky shore just 150 yards across from a small island. The 4 of us rushed to the boat and with all haste and made way towards a small island from which to attempt a shot. As we approached, we kept the small island between us and the bear to mask our approach. It was decided that we would take up a position on the island and attempt a shot over the water. Just as we piled out of the boat and took up position, a local fishing boat surprised both us and the bear. One look over his shoulder and the bear decided that the safety of the thick cover was his next destination. I had only a few seconds to take the shot as the bear now turned and began to angle up towards the brush.

Flashing back a few days ago, my guide Sam reminded me that these Bears are ferocious and if wounded, they are extremely dangerous. Therefore, he recommended I make a good shot and for insurance he would take the second shot and anchor the bear in place. Of course I agreed.

As the bear began to turn up hill, I focused 100% of my attention on placement and put the shot squarely on target. The bear rolled over and stopped itself from ending up in the cold pacific water. Just then Sam’s rifle erupted and I could see an explosion of rock about a foot behind the bear. The bear’s reaction was instantaneous as he now headed directly uphill and into the thickest of cover. Looking over at Sam, he stared back at me and said in his most concerned voice, how comfortable were you with your shot? After a moment to formulate a response I said, a lot more comfortable than I was with your %@#$* shot!. A sheepish grin came over Sam, he responded, I guess I still get a little nervous bear hunting. In utter disbelief we both looked back at the spot where they bear had entered the costal brush and knew what was ahead for us.

Climbing into our small boat we made our way to the spot where we last saw the bear. Climbing out of that boat knowing that a 7ft 500 pound not-so-happy-to-be-shot black bear could be only feet away from introducing itself in a very personal way is a feeling I won’t soon forget. Checking the rocks for a blood trail was our first task. To our astonishment nothing was found, not a drop. This is where the hunter starts to really second guess himself. Did I miss? I couldn’t have, he wouldn’t have rolled like that for fun. We decided the only way to find out was to enter the tangled brush and go find that bear. So after a few prayers, in we go. Sam to the right and me to the left. Within moments I heard Sam cry out, Yahoo dead bear. Was I ever relieved, following Sam’s voice I came upon the welcome sight of Sam standing over a shinny jet black trophy bear. And what a beauty he was.

A well placed quartering away shot is one of the most devastating hits in my view on most game animals due to the bullet traversing the internals and contacting many different organs at once. The bear rolled on impact and sprinted for cover but managed only 20 yards at best. The shot measured about 150 yards in a 5 mph cross wind. Not a difficult shot from a bench, but in waders, balancing on loose rocks the size of cinder blocks including the stress of time and the need to make the first one count, my year long Sunday morning range sessions really paid dividends that day. The bear measured 7 foot square and by accounts of the guides would have weighed nearly 500 pounds by fall, but was a lean 350 pounds this early in spring.
The balance of the trip was clearly less exciting but was a welcome respite from the hunt. Now is when the hunter can relax and enjoy the memories and write in his journal. Another successful adventure comes to a close.

The Equipment --------
Rifle… Remington 700 Stainless Synthetic in 338 Win Mag.
Ammo... 225 Grian Barnes Triple Shock hand loads, zeroed to 150 yards.
Scope… Burris Black Diamond in 4-16 power, Leupold quick release rings and bases
Pistol… S&W Model 500 with 350 Grain Sierra hollow points



What worked and what didn’t


  1. Gortex rainwear is not something I would recommend for Alaska. You will get wet and cold. Gortex is not water Proof. So leave your Gortex behind and pack only 100% waterproof rain wear.
  2. Filtered bottle for drinking water worked. All water we used was taken from a trusted stream running down the hillside. A 2 micron filter bottle provided nice assurance that this water didn’t transfer anything that would cause illness.
  3. Ankle fit hip waders that you’re comfortable walking in are key. There is no beach, just loose rock shores. Some can be rather treacherous to walk on. So bring a well fitting set of waders. You’ll spend nearly 100% of your hunting time in them.
  4. Waterproof gun boot is extremely preferred. These ocean coastal hunts are really HARD on gun metal. Rust is not a possibility but a certainty if you don’t pay constant attention to your firearms. While traveling by boat, these water proof boots really help keep you gun and scope protected.
  5. Good optics are critical in this type of hunt. Due to the amount of time and distances over which you will be glassing, high magnification and bright clear optics could mean the difference.
  6. Be very familiar and well practiced with your rifle. The time you may get to make THE shot may me as little as 5 seconds.
  7. Know where to hit the target and make it count. Wounding a black bear and having to follow him up in thick costal cover is not something you want to do unless your insurance is fully paid. Focus on making the first one count. A follow up on a fast moving bear into thick cover is a hail mary at best.

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